This photographer took a life-affirming cargo ship cruise through the Marquesas Islands


At our final island, Ua Huka, I’m tempted to ride one of the many horses that it’s famous for, but I can’t pass up the invitation to visit Tahiarii’s cousin, Maheatete Lichdle. Being welcomed into someone’s home is the best way to experience island life, however briefly; it’s an honor and a highlight of the trip for me.

From the rich, wooden decor to the large, vibrant bougainvillea tree shading the house and the sweetest mango I’ve ever tasted, everything is heightened, imbued with something beyond this world. Maybe it’s because it’s our last Marquesan island, but I think about what Tepuarii said, and somehow feel this island’s mana has connected with me.

I return to the ship adorned with the lei that Maheatete welcomed us with, its aroma filling my cabin. It’s customary to throw flowers into the sea as you sail away from the Marquesas, but I cannot bring myself to part with this lei just yet. I wear it all evening, along with a frangipani behind my ear, which has now somehow become part of my everyday attire. These islands have definitely pulled me into their world.

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The writer traveled courtesy of the Aranui 5, a dual-purpose passenger/freighter ship that sails from Tahiti to the Marquesas, Tuamotu and Society Islands in French Polynesia on a 12-day all-inclusive cruise.



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